“The skin around the eyes is thinner and more delicate than the skin on the rest of the face, so you need a formula designed specifically for this area to target concerns without causing irritation,” says Michael Krathen, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Natick, Massachusetts, and Chief Medical Advisor for Cottonball.

Eye cream may be small, but it’s mighty. It addresses the needs of the thin skin around the eyes—which has fewer oil glands and is more prone to dryness, sensitivity, and irritation—with targeted ingredients in concentrations that are effective yet gentle enough for this area. 

In fact, if you scan the directions on your facial skincare, you’ll often see a warning to avoid use in the eye area, underscoring that what works for the rest of your complexion may not be suitable for this more fragile skin.

So, what should you be using to take care of this area? We asked Dr. Krathen to lay out a simple, strategic routine that helps protect and treat so skin stays smooth and radiant.

In the morning: nourish and protect

When the alarm goes off, resist the temptation to rub your eyes (whether you press snooze is up to you). Not only can this stretch the skin and contribute to laxity, but the friction is a problem too. It can cause inflammation beneath the surface, which may trigger excess pigment production that leads to dark circles. Before you start knocking down unread Slacks, give your eyes some direct attention.

Step 1: Cleanse. Be gentle to the skin around your eyes when washing your face. Just a splash of lukewarm water and a bit of mild, hydrating face wash is all you need to refresh the area without stripping away its natural oils.

Step 2: Depuff. If you wake up with puffy eyes (and who among us doesn’t?), gently press a cold washcloth on your swollen lids or use a chilled metal skincare roller, pulling it out and away from your eyes, for several minutes. Whichever depuffing method you choose, stay upright while you do it, which helps encourage the excess fluid around your eyes to drain. 

You might also want a morning espresso for your eyes. If puffiness is a persistent issue, make sure your A.M. eye cream contains caffeine. It helps constrict blood vessels to calm swelling.

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Step 3: Moisturize. Here's another reason an eye-specific cream matters: Thick, rich formulas will cause eye makeup to smear right off. To avoid a meltdown while still nourishing the skin, try a lightweight lotion or cream that contains hyaluronic acid or glycerin. These hydrators absorb quickly and don't leave behind greasy residue.

Always use your ring finger, which has the lightest touch, to ever-so-gingerly tap on products around your eyes. This might seem insignificant, but rubbing really does pull and stretch the skin.

Step 4: Protect. If your eye cream doesn’t contain SPF, pat a dot of facial sunscreen along your orbital bone through the outer corners of your eyes and along your temples. (Mineral-based sunscreen is less likely than chemical ones to irritate the sensitive eye skin.)

“This is arguably the most important step in any eye care routine," says Dr. Krathen. “UV exposure is one of the main culprits behind premature aging.” 

The thin skin around the eyes already has less collagen and elastin than the skin on the rest of the face, making it more vulnerable to UV rays. And we all know what those rays can do: contribute to fine lines, crow’s feet, and even dark circles. Shielding this area daily is just smart skincare.

In the evening: repair and rejuvenate

Ray Charles said it best: Nighttime is the right time. For skin rejuvenation, obviously. While you sleep, skin cells spring into action to repair damage, so it's an ideal stretch of hours to address issues like dark circles and wrinkles with targeted treatments.

Step 1: Remove eye makeup. Since you want to be as tender as possible on the skin around your eyes, it’s best to remove eye makeup separately, before you wash your face, so you’re not scrubbing at your eyes to get them clean. 

Dampen a cotton pad with a fragrance-free micellar water or an oil-based eye makeup remover. Gently press it on your closed lid for about 15 seconds to help dissolve any mascara, liner, and shadow, then lightly swipe the pad downward to clean the skin and lashes. Repeat if necessary to get off all the makeup, then wash your face.

Step 2: Treat. “For wrinkles and crow’s feet, look for an eye cream with retinoids, which stimulate collagen production to help smooth and firm the skin,” says Dr. Krathen. He recommends tretinoin, a prescription-strength retinoid, or bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinoid alternative that also stimulates collagen but is better suited to sensitive skin. (With Cottonball’s VX.5 Undereye Smoothing & Brightening Balm, one of our dermatologists will choose the right ingredient for your skin type.)

Retinoids and bakuchiol also help minimize the look of dark circles by increasing two key things: 1) skin cell turnover (which helps the skin shed overly pigmented cells and replace them with even-toned cells), and 2) collagen, which helps thicken the skin so any darkening beneath the surface is less visible. 

Vitamin C delivers additional fading power to help brighten the undereye area, as does bisabolol, a soothing anti-inflammatory agent that’s also been shown to significantly reduce hyperpigmentation.

Whatever your primary concern, make sure your nighttime eye cream is also deeply hydrating, with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to nourish the naturally drier skin here.

For an all-in-one solution that addresses lines and crow’s feet, dark circles, puffiness, and moisturization, try Cottonball VX.5 Undereye Smoothing & Brightening Balm. If the dermatologist determines that your personalized version is best with tretinoin, you'll need to top it with sunscreen during the day.

Every formulation of the balm contains vitamin C to brighten skin and fade hyperpigmentation, caffeine and vitamin K to reduce puffiness and support healthy blood circulation, and a powerhouse blend of hydrators including hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, squalane, and ceramides. 

Throughout the year: keep an eye on skin’s needs

While you don’t typically need a different eye cream in the summer versus the winter, certain skin changes can warrant a formula swap. If you notice a smattering of tiny, pinhead-size milky white or flesh-colored bumps around your eyes that are firm to the touch, you may have milia. These harmless bumps are caused by a buildup of keratin under the skin and can occur if your eye cream is too rich. 

With milia that only appears in the summer, try switching to a lightweight eye gel or lotion for the season. And while milia typically clears up on its own, a dermatologist can remove them if needed.

Persistent redness or flaking around your eyes could be a sign of irritant contact dermatitis, or of a skin condition such as eczema or psoriasis. “In these instances, it’s best to see a dermatologist to get the right diagnosis and treatment,” says Dr. Krathen.

Beyond skincare, a few lifestyle tips can help too. 

  • Sleep with your head elevated at an angle to reduce fluid buildup overnight and minimize morning puffiness. 

  • Eat plenty of leafy greens, citrus fruits, fatty fish, nuts, and berries—that is, foods rich in antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, and vitamins—to support overall skin health. 

  • And for the love of eyes, take breaks throughout the day from staring at digital screens and turn down their brightness. This helps reduce the eye strain that leads to tired-looking eyes. (And it just feels like…relief.)

All in all, taking a few extra minutes for your eyes each day helps the most delicate skin on your face stay bright, smooth, and firm. And that's a smart investment.

Is Cottonball’s VX.5 Undereye Smoothing & Brightening Balm right for you? Take this short quiz to find out.